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How To Grow Fine Asters

The Aster is a well-established favorite in all flower gardens. It Was highly esteemed in the old-fashioned garden under the name of Queen Marguerites. The botanical name of the original single-flowered Aster is Callistephus Chinensis which was introduced from China in 1731.

Comparatively few are fully aware to what degree this beautiful flower has been developed during recent years. We know of cases where gardeners have been deceived by well-known flowers and have mistaken them for fine Chrysanthemums. The resemblance has been the more striking on those like the Comet and Crego types with their fine feathery petals, and the late branching type with their very large flowers on long, stiff sterns. The improvement made in the fine dwarf strains used for bedding or pot plants is equally marked.

Asters suceed best in the cool temperatures of the northern states but with proper attention to the season of planting, equally fine flowers can be had in almost every section of the country and especially in the Middle West.

By sowing seed of the very early varieties under glass in March, carefully transplanting the seedlings when large enough to handle, gradually hardening them off and setting the plants in the open when all danger of frost is past, one is rewarded with lovely flowers toward the middle and last of July. Naturally the fine flowers raised by this method-creates a desire for a longer period of bloom. We have learned that by making a second sowing during early May, the plants grow well during the summer months. If properly cultivated (and watered during dry periods) the plants will commence flowering early in September and furnish us fine blooms until the plants are cut down by the heavy frosts late in the autumn. I find that a mulch of grass clippings around the plants in the hot, dry weather will not only help to pre_ serve .the moisture in the soil but will greatly assist the fine growth of the plants by keeping the soil cool during the heat of mid-day.

There are many lovely varieties to choose from with many lovely colors and are wilt-resistant.

Cultivation has much to do with success in growing Asters as with other plants. A good rich soil is essential with some fertilizing but mainly, constant cultivation. This not only keeps the bed free from weeds but keeps the soil always loose and fine and prevents it from becoming baked and hard. Water should be applied at the roots instead of spraying it on the plants if the weather becomes hot and dry. Should a wilty or yellowish plant develop, pluck it out at once and burn. Spray the soil with some good insecticide to destroy any insects or disease that might be lingering there. Insects often cause trouble in Aster plantings but fortunately I have had very little trouble. Grasshoppers have been most bothersome with me but if one is on the alert, they can ‘soon be’ encouraged to move on. I have found that by spraying a time or two with neem oil – a natural pesticide – will help do away with roots aphids, tarnish beetles, etc.

Eight inches is a good distance to set the plants apart each way. This gives room for cultivation and for branching of the plants. To make the plants branch, pinch out the tops when they are about two and a half or three inches high, and again when more branches are formed.

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